Hardwood Floor Sanding & Refinishing

Hardwood sanding and refinishing takes a wood floor back to bare timber with abrasive machines, then rebuilds the finish from scratch — the correct answer when the existing wear layer has failed.

  • Free estimate, no obligation
  • Priced after we see the floor — not over the phone
  • Residential and commercial
  • Solid hardwood
  • Engineered hardwood with adequate wear layer
  • Parquet and herringbone

See how it works

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  • Written estimate after inspection
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Floor Types & Materials

Reviewed July 2026.

Materials we work with

  • Solid hardwood
  • Engineered hardwood with adequate wear layer
  • Parquet and herringbone
  • Softwood plank floors

Where this is used

  • Whole-house refinishing
  • Living and dining rooms
  • Stairs
  • Restaurants and bars
  • Offices

Problems We Solve

Worn-through finish

Once bare wood is exposed, the timber absorbs dirt and moisture directly. Sanding removes the damaged surface and a new finish seals it again.

Deep scratches and gouges

Damage that has reached the wood cannot be coated away. Sanding cuts below it so the surface reads as continuous again.

Water stains and greying

Dark rings and grey patches sit in the top fraction of the board. Sanding usually reaches clean timber underneath, though severe black staining may have penetrated too far.

Outdated or failed colour

A full sanding is the only point at which stain colour can genuinely be changed, since the old colour lives in the wood surface itself.

Cupping and lippage

Boards that have moved leave uneven edges. Flattening passes bring the floor back to a single plane once the moisture cause is resolved.

How It Works

  1. Moisture and structure check

    We read moisture in the boards and subfloor first. Refinishing a floor that is still wet guarantees the problem returns, so the source is resolved before sanding.

  2. Repairs and fastening

    Loose boards get re-secured, damaged sections replaced and protruding fasteners set below the surface — a single raised nail destroys an abrasive belt and scores the floor.

  3. Coarse cut

    The first aggressive pass removes the old finish and the damaged surface layer, and establishes flatness across the whole floor.

  4. Intermediate and fine sanding

    Successive finer grits erase the scratch pattern of the previous pass. Skipping a grit leaves marks that only appear once stain goes on.

  5. Edging and corner detail

    Perimeters, stair treads and corners are worked by hand so machine and hand-sanded areas take stain identically.

  6. Stain and seal

    Optional stain goes on evenly and is allowed to cure, followed by multiple protective coats with abrasion between them.

Typical timeline: 3–6 days for a typical residential floor, plus cure

Sanding, staining and coating each occupy their own stage, and stain must cure fully before sealing. Light foot traffic returns within days, but full cure — the point at which rugs and heavy furniture are safe — takes considerably longer.

Looking after the floor afterwards

Respect the cure window

The finish is soft for far longer than it feels. Rugs and heavy furniture placed early leave permanent impressions.

Control indoor humidity

Wood moves with humidity. Keeping it in a stable range is what prevents cupping and gapping from returning.

Grit control at doors

Entry mats and pads under furniture do more to protect a new finish than any product applied to it.

Plan the next recoat

A recoat before the wear layer fails avoids ever sanding again, and each sanding permanently removes board thickness.

Finish & Sheen Options

The sheen level changes both how the floor looks and how much upkeep it asks for.

Matte

Low

Natural, almost raw appearance. The most forgiving option for households with pets and children.

Satin

Medium-low

The default residential specification — visible depth without drawing attention to every particle of dust.

Semi-gloss

Medium-high

Brighter and more formal, and noticeably less tolerant of scratches.

Gloss

High

Maximum reflection and grain emphasis, most often specified in commercial and period settings.

Residential & Commercial

Residential

  • Whole-house refinishing during a move
  • Restoring floors uncovered from under carpet
  • Colour changes
  • Repairing water-damaged rooms

Commercial

  • Restaurant and bar floors
  • Retail and showroom timber
  • Historic and civic buildings
  • Office refurbishment

What Affects the Cost

Every floor is priced after we have seen it. These are the variables that move the number.

Floor condition

A flat floor with a failed finish sands predictably. Cupping, heavy staining, adhesive residue or old paint each add passes and sometimes force a coarser start.

Stain versus natural

Staining is a separate application and cure stage, and it raises the penalty for uneven sanding because colour reveals every missed scratch.

Coating system

Finish choice drives both material cost and schedule, since systems differ substantially in cure time and number of coats.

Layout and detail

Stairs, closets, herringbone and inlays are hand-intensive. A stair flight can carry the labour of a whole room.

Repairs before sanding

Board replacement, re-fastening and subfloor work are priced separately from the sanding itself.

Request a Hardwood sanding and refinishing estimate

Send the material, approximate area and a few photos, and we will take it from there.

Get a Free Estimate

Where We Offer Hardwood Floor Sanding & Refinishing

Select a state to see the counties and cities currently covered.

Why Work With Us

Written estimate after inspection

We price the floor after seeing it, not from a phone description. The estimate sets out scope and the variables that could change it, so there are no discoveries mid-job.

Material identified before work starts

Marble, limestone and travertine look alike and behave differently under the same abrasive. We confirm what the floor actually is and test in a discreet area before committing to a method.

Dust controlled at source

Grinding and sanding run with HEPA-filtered extraction at the tool head and containment between work and occupied areas, because concrete dust is a health matter rather than a tidiness one.

Written maintenance plan on handover

You get the products, dilutions and intervals that keep the finish alive, since most floors we are called back to were damaged by cleaning rather than by use.

Frequently Asked Questions

How many times can a floor be sanded?

It depends on thickness above the tongue. Solid hardwood typically tolerates several sandings across its life; engineered boards depend entirely on wear-layer thickness and some cannot be sanded at all. We measure before quoting rather than assume.

Is dustless sanding actually dustless?

It is dust-contained, not dust-free. Vacuum-integrated machines capture the large majority at source, which makes a substantial difference to the house, but sealing off adjacent rooms is still worthwhile.

Can we stay in the house during the work?

Often yes, with planning. Rooms are staged so there is always somewhere to be, though finish application periods need the area clear and well ventilated.

Will all the dark stains come out?

Surface greying usually sands out. Black stains from long-term water or pet urine have often penetrated the full board thickness, and in those cases board replacement is the honest option.